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Further InformationThe charm of Sarawak, from the days of the White Rajahs to the present time, has always come from two complementary sources: The beauty of the tropical rain-forest, with its diversity of flora and fauna unequalled, except by the tropical coral reef; AND The attractive attributes of the local people: their innate dignity,
self reliance and obvious competence in dealing with their daily lives isolated in their
jungle and river domain. Unfortunately the inevitable onward march of progress, is slowly turning these robust individualists into anonymous town dwellers and the jungle into denuded slopes. There is still some of the old Sarawak left, however, and it is well worth visiting because its virtues are sorely lacking in modern society. KAPIT ADVENTURE TOURS, through the guidance of TAN TECK CHUAN ("Chuan") wants to take you far upriver to a beautiful great valley of utterly virgin rain forest, neither inhabited nor farmed nor defiled by "Kompeni" (the logging company). To complete the picture, our Kenyah guides will take you back to the ways of their forefathers. This is a conscious attempt to recreate something of the past, a little of the spirit of life in the jungle before the advent of civilization, amongst an ethnic group who brought that culture to a splendid peak in virtual isolation. Your guides will dress in their "tabang" (an elaborate but practical loincloth), wear an astonishing assortment of hats, and carry traditional weapons, tools and implements. They will pole and paddle their traditional longboats up some of the numerous rapids and light fire from tinder and kindling out of the forest. We will carry only rice for sustenance, just as we would have a hundred years ago, and dine on the produce of the jungle and river off large green leaves laid on the river rocks. You will sleep on the rocks of the dried riverbed under a "lepoh", a temporary shelter of saplings and leaves (make sure you have your ground sheet handy! – This is the RAIN Forest!). All of this will provide plenty of photo opportunities of course but hopefully the guest will also absorb something of the harmony of Man with Nature that still exists in this world, and find a useful measure of Self, and can cope with a life of simple, rugged, self-sufficiency. This trip will provide some guaranteed discomfort, and absolutely no "luxury"; it is an adventure of the mind rather than an indulgence of the anatomy, and so prospective guests who need service or luxury should opt for the nearest five-star hotel! The ordinary human frame is quite capable of meeting the physical challengers, IF AND ONLY IF, that frame has been tuned up before the trip with regular exercise. There is plenty of time left! Some Details This trip is mostly based in boats, and so one can carry less than on a pure trekking trip, but you must be able to carry everything on your back and your belt, with your hands free – one backpack and some water-bottles, are essential. Your FOOTWEAR should be chosen as much for getting a grip on wet rocks in a rushing stream as for walking long distances – so rubber soles are not good, leather or similar synthetic is better. Similarly, the soft ankle padding, of fashionable jogging/trekking shoes never dries, so simple footwear is better. Rain Usually July, August and September are the driest months of the year, but…this is the Rain Forest! A water-proof jacket works well when you are sitting in a boat, or on the back of a Land Cruiser, but you will sweat inside unbearably if you try to walk a long distance in the rain. Surprisingly, a small folding umbrella is quite practical under most conditions and is easily stowed. A lightweight army ground sheet is also essential for sleeping and covering your "barang" (luggage). Dress See Tips on Travel in the Ulu. On this trip the men are invited to try a "tabang" loincloth, which is cool, unrestrictive, and dries out easily. It has another important advantage when the inevitable fight for survival with a giant Python occurs! (Ask Chuan about this one!) Wearing trousers tucked into socks will reduce the number of leeches you will attract on a short jungle walk, but will result in acquiring them in embarrassing places after many hours in the jungle. Despite their apparent briefness of dress the Orang Ulu are really quite modest about undressing. Please reciprocate! Bathing should be done in shorts for men and a sarong for women. It is usual for both sexes to change clothes in public under the cover of a sarong, but this takes dexterity and practice! Behaviour Regrettably most Asians find Europeans to be often overbearing, loud and rather demanding at first acquaintance. It is best to slow down, move gently. Say little and say it softly – but do not worry too much! When they know you, they will trade affectionate insults – Angkai is a master at repartee. Please leave photography of faces until you know people better, and always ask permission. Nothing is quite so alarming as the foreign visitor who takes close-up portraits before introductions are made. On the other hand, everyone loves a photo of himself so take one Polaroid camera with your group or send good shots back to Chuan for him to distribute. Hunting is the Orang Ulu way of life that we have specifically come all this way to see, and remonstrance will result in the whole party eating little but rice for five days! Those who are uncontrollably squeamish about killing animals should remain within driving distance of a supermarket, where the chickens are plucked already, or close to a fancy restaurant that serves venison stew. Strict conservationists might think of the Orang Ulu almost as a natural component of the environment – certainly the nomadic Penan qualify for this status because their hunting is solely for their meager subsistence. Should we be lucky enough to see the elusive Clouded Leopard, it would then be appropriate to recall that this beautiful and rare animal is completely protected by law and will be left in peace. The same applies, with less chance, of an encounter with Orang Utan or Pematoh (the Rhinoceros). Sleeping The most difficult bit! Quite incredibly the Orang Ulu just lie down on the rocks of the riverbed and go to sleep. Tired, middle-aged bones might benefit from using a rubber foam camping mat. This will insulate one from the ground as well as provide a little padding. Keep umbrella and ground sheet handy in case of a downpour, and if it keeps raining, be prepared to bolt for trees in case of a "banjir" (flash-flood). The shelter will be erected on the riverbed because this minimizes the chance of an encounter with Fire Ants, Leeches, Scorpions, Crocodiles, Pythons, Bears, Rhinos and other creepy-crawlies that infest the jungle floor. One anecdote is worth recounting -- despite advice, a party of Frenchmen opted to sleep on the elevated jungle floor above the riverbed because of its flat terrain and softness. Before midnight they were driven to the riverbed by fire ants and leeches! Sleep did not come easy on the rocks because of steady heavy rain at midnight that dripped through the leafy roof of their shelter. The continuing rain warned of a coming banjir but the Frenchmen again ignored the advice of their guides to move to higher ground. The rapid rise of the river swept away the shelter and their barang. They sat in the boats in the rain for the rest of the night. The moral is: Listen to tour guides! We cannot guarantee that every night will be as exciting! When you wake in the morning and dress, shake out your clothes and peer inside your shoes to check for scorpions. Boats and Rapids The classic longboat that has changed little in the last two hundred years, except in the use of iron fastenings instead of rottan lashings. The hull is based on a "keel" made from a hollowed-out log, with one or two planks added to each side. This craft is ideal for such work and it is hard to conceive of a better design, even with modern materials. It is easily pushed by a 5hp engine, or by men with paddles and pools. We will use a long-tailed outboard most of the way because of the long distance involved. These longboats are actually unstable but self-right after listing 15 degrees or so. Always step into the canoe-line of the boat, never on the edges. Almost any movement will disturb the balance, so stay as still as possible. The boat may heel violently in the rapids and do not attempt vigorous movements to correct the heel. Remain sitting and the boat will recover. Once again, do not wear your pack on your back in a boat, or securely strapped on during a river crossing, as it will float and hold your face underwater. Wear the life jacket supplied. Stow your barang on the plank floor amidships, out of the inevitable bilge water. Be prepared for splashes, especially in the rapids – keep your camera under cover but easily accessible for use. PHOTOGRAPHY There is generally plenty of light on the river, but under the jungle canopy it is quite dim and greenish. ASA 200 film at f4 and 1/60s just captures the scene. INSURANCE All care will be taken but this is adventure and there are some dangers. This information is also valid for our third tour, a Visit the Penan People. |
For more information, All text and photographs are copyright of Kapit Adventure Tours. Please do not reuse without prior permission. |
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